Milwaukee’s food identity was shaped by German and Polish immigration, and the traces are everywhere: bratwurst, beer halls, and a brewing history that made the city’s name synonymous with lager.

Two rituals matter. The Friday fish fry is close to universal — cod or perch, potato pancakes, rye bread — and it fills supper clubs, taverns and church halls across the city. And frozen custard, denser and richer than ice cream, is taken seriously enough that the rival stands have genuine partisans.

The Historic Third Ward and Bay View hold most of the newer restaurants. The Milwaukee Public Market is a good first stop for getting the range of the city in one visit.